deja vu

Above left: Matthew Williamson, spring 2007. Above right, Pucci, spring 2008.

(Matthew Williamson is the creative director of Pucci. Yeah.)

Dolce & Gabbana

I do a lot of trash-talking on Dolce & Gabbana, especially on their ubiquitous but incredibly boring corset dress. But I think they might be on to something here:

The boning is a little out of control, and the shape of the skirt is weird for me, but I love the sheer long sleeved tee underneath. What a great idea! Over the last couple seasons (years, even?) we've all been saying layer, layer, layer, and whenever I sell a dress I tell my customers how great it would look with a thin turtleneck underneath, but I can really get behind it this time. Because it's sheer and nude, it doesn't take away from the dress, and it's still dressy, but it makes the look way more appropriate for chillier weather.

I actually sort of liked the spring collection from Dolce & Gabbana.

This look above is adorable. They used some serious brocades, but kept it sweet rather than stuffy with the flirty skirt and blouse.

Above: A very cool, irreverent way to wear a dressy trouser.

Above: There's that sheer sleeve again! There was clear inspiration from art, as you can see from the sort of messy brush strokes all over this dress (Dior couture, anyone?).

Above: There's something very Zoolander-Derelicte about this dress, but you really can't argue with the craftsmanship.

A reluctant thumbs up to Dominico and Stefano.

Q: what's wrong with this picture?

Roberto Cavalli, spring 2008.

A: It's not slutty! Where's the cleavage? Where are the animal prints? I'm so confused.

stop the presses: PART DEUX

Agyness Deyn has brown hair now!?

I figured it was one of those temporary wash-out jobs when she went red for Giles in London.

But now she's been a brunette for several shows, and I'm getting nervous:


Don't get me wrong, she looks great. And I can certainly understand why she'd want to shake things up by throwing her most recognizable feature out the window. I wonder if she's going to stick with it through Paris?

Missoni, Moschino

I imagine it must be hard to create a new collection for Missoni; like Pucci and Etro, they already have a signature that's expected to be the focus. I thought Angela Missoni did a good, if not terribly exciting job branching out but staying true to the traditional zigzags and prints.

Above: I like the mirror detail on this dress, but the colors are kind of boring for me.

Above: You know Mischa or some little Zoebot will show up in this dress at some point.

I thought the most fun pieces she showed were the gold sequined ones, like this one above. The specks of turquoise and red made it new and a little less serious.

---

I've always liked Moschino; it's always seemed sort of quirky and fun and even a bit anti-fashion. This time around, it was just a little too goofy for me.

After I saw this, all I could think of was Johnny Depp as Willy Wonka.

Bottega Veneta, Prada

Every once in awhile, I think about what I'm going to look like when I'm a real adult. I am going to be a seriously chic lady. I am going to wear everything from Bottega Veneta's spring 2008 line:


Above: This dress is flawless.


Above: These pleats are so delicate and pretty, but there's nothing overly girly about it. The color is perfect, the waist is perfect, the neckline is perfect.

Above: Here, detail and embellishment that's not frivolous. It's a way to kick up a classic look while keeping it timeless.

Not a trendy piece in sight (well, except for the little lingerie-esque look and an unfortunate bubble hem), just beautiful, simple clothes. Love.

---

Miuccia Prada, like Marc in New York and Nicolas in Paris, has a mind for fashion that, simply, is lightyears aheads of everyone else's. Remember that one time when she put robots on her clothes? Remember the turbans? Remember the ombre and the bright green and orange fur? (I should hope so, it was only a few months ago, really.)

This time around, it's fairies and checks. What?? I know. But I also know that it's only a matter of time before these looks are in every spring editorial:




While I can't quite get behind the fairy thing, I love the prints. As always, Miuccia's use of texture was inspired; the filmy sheer dresses and that gold lame skirt are great. And we'll obviously be seeing these on the arm of every It girl whose patent ombre bag is in storage come spring:


Lastly: Has anyone else been on the Alice in Wonderland ride at Disneyland? I'm having serious childhood flashbacks after looking at Prada's shoes.

get ready!

It may seem like I've been slacking off as far as my lack of posts recently. But really, I've just been prepping myself for this:

24 September

10.30am C´N´C´ COSTUME NATIONAL
2.00pm GIORGIO ARMANI
4.00pm JUST CAVALLI
5.00pm TRUSSARDI
6.00pm BURBERRY PRORSUM
7.00pm MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC
8.00pm GIANFRANCO FERRE
9.00pm ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA

25 September

9.45am SPORTMAX
10.30am BLUMARINE
11.15am LA PERLA
12.00nn MISSONI
1.00pm BOTTEGA VENETA
2.00pm MOSCHINO
3.00pm ETRO
4.00pm ICEBERG
5.00pm POLLINI
6.00pm PRADA

26 September

12.45pm ROBERTO CAVALLI
1.30pm SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
2.30pm EMPORIO ARMANI
5.30pm GUCCI
8.30pm ALBERTA FERRETTI

27 September

09.45am MAXMARA
11.15am EMILIO PUCCI
4.00pm FENDI
6.00pm JIL SANDER
8.00pm GIANNI VERSACE

28 September

11.15am BLUGIRL
12.00nn AIGNER
13.00pm DSQUARED2
14.00pm DAKS

30 September

3.30pm BALMAIN
6.30pm RICK OWENS

1 October

12.00pm VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
2.30pm CHRISTIAN DIOR
5.30pm UNDERCOVER
6.30pm MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
7.30pm AF VANDEVORST
8.30pm YOHJI YAMAMOTO

2 October

9.30am BALENCIAGA
10.30am JUNYA WATANABE
2.30pm VIKTOR & ROLF
3.30pm ISSEY MIYAKE
4.30pm ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
5.30pm COMME DES GARCONS
7.00pm JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

3 October
9.30am KARL LAGERFELD
11.30am AKRIS
12.30pm VALENTINO
1.30pm COSTUME NATIONAL
2.30pm DRIES VAN NOTEN
3.30pm CHRISTIAN LACROIX
4.30pm LOEWE
5.30pm SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI
?? GIVENCHY
?? HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

4 October

10.00am STELLA MCCARTNEY
2.00pm EMANUEL UNGARO
4.30pm CELINE
8.00pm YVES SAINT LAURENT

5 October

10.30am CHANEL
11.30am AGNÈS B.
2.30pm SONIA RYKIEL
4.30pm GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
5.30pm RUE DU MAIL
8.00pm ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

6 October

10.30am KENZO
11.30am ELIE SAAB
3.30pm CHLOE
5.30pm HERMÈS
8.00pm JOHN GALLIANO

7 October

11.00am NINA RICCI
3.00pm MIU MIU
5.30pm LANVIN
7.30pm LOUIS VUITTON

Prada! Bottega! Alberta Feretti!

Balenciaga! Stella! Chloe!

Now these are fashion weeks.

i promise i won't go on a rant about this,

but WHYYYYY is this happening?

Honestly.

House of Holland, spring 2008.

runway to reality: part DEUX

Ok lovelies: this is an example of what not to do.

While I'm really impressed that Kylie Minogue managed to snatch this little number right from a runway show that's barely four days old, and while I applaud her choice to don something more original than say, a D&G corset dress, I still cringe a little bit when I see this picture:

I don't know. Maybe I should just shut up and be grateful that she didn't try to sport the headgear as well:
Gareth Pugh, spring 2008.

Paul Smith Women, Jonathan Saunders

It must be hard for someone like Paul Smith, whose schtick is so defined -- dapper-dan little suits, borderline-nerdy -- to think outside the box. He's good at what he does; why mess around with a good thing? The beginning of his collection was just what you'd expect, like this great little blazer- Harry Potter glasses combo:


His collection moved on, however, to some looks that, while not quite surprising, were a little more chic.

I love the sweaterdress above. The striped scarf fools you into thinking Smith's doing a little menswear-inspired tie, but instead it's a little more feminine.

And this dress above, one of his last looks, is gorgeous. It's pretty and glamorous in a perfect, Paul Smith way: the sheer fabric is sexy but not at all overt, and that blazer adds just a little touch of nerd.

---

Jonathan Saunders is showing in New York next season! It's like we're getting a new neighbor! I loved his bright chiffon dresses for fall, and I thought his spring collection was incredibly chic... so let's roll out the welcome mat for February.

I liked the way he used color here -- it was very subtle and muted, which must have been a big adjustment for him after last season. The draped dress, second from the top, reminds me a bit of Preen's spring dresses, but it's so pretty! And I loved the pleating on the look that's third down: it's very sophisticated, chic, and modern, but without being boring. And don't get me wrong: I think the minimalism of a Jil Sander or Calvin Klein plain plain plain shift dress can be beautiful, but Saunders' has those little interesting elements that I love. The giant lucite bangle in the first look is Awesome. And that last dress? I don't even think I have to say anything about that. Sigh.

---

P.S. I feel like Tanya D has been blowing up this season. Does anyone else think she looks a little bit like an alien?

At Oscar de la Renta. Prettiest little alien I ever did see.

runway to reality

This Prada tunic from Spring 07 is something I would never wear:


I would never even pick it off a rack just because it's so kitschy and screamingly Prada. It's a little ridiculous.

That being said, I think Ashley Olsen, in LA on Saturday, looks awesome in it.

How can she look so cool wearing a fringed leather tunic? Ashley Olsen, share your secret!

Luella

Luella Bartley makes clothes for DORKS, and I love it.

From the cardigans and giant nerd glasses to the Batman (yes, Batman) references and lace-up oxfords, Luella's spring collection was totally goofy in the coolest way.

Above: This is great. It's a very sweet, 50s look, but modernized with the huge patent bag and oxfords. And we all know how I feel about oxfords (pro).

I'm starting to really love Cecelia Mendez, above. It would be really easy for that silver suit to look cheap, but it's perfect (I like the narrow lapels) and a little Thom Browne-esque, which I love.

Above: A little 50s dork going to a Batman convention. It's so cute!

This dress above reminds me of the hot pink Luella dress Chloe Sevigny wore to some event. Without the print shoes, which are a little much for me, this would be a great, fun, party dress.

This one above, however, I can't get behind. I know the ombre is going to be such the big deal for spring, but it's still a little too Prada-esque for me, and i can't look at those pleats without thinking of Giambattista Valli's pleats and the subsequent Zara knockoffs. Also, I just don't like the combat boots.

a confession:

I don't care about London Fashion Week.

There, I said it.

Ok sure, I'll definitely check out the big names like Stella and Matthew Williamson (who's back in London after a stretch in New York). But I'm afraid I'm a New York/Paris snob, and I'm having a hard time getting inspired by goth/club kid Gareth Pugh (top) and the utterly boring Topshop (below).

my latest love:

This is not a want, it's a need. I may make a bad financial decision soon.

the world is coming to an end...

when things like this exist.

Koi Suwannagate

Here's my final FWD review for this season, Koi Suwannagate.

Now the New York season is over, but I'll keep you guys posted on what I think of the London, Milan, and Paris shows. I'm psyched to see what Ghesquiere's been working on!

is it just me, or...

Are the fancy-pants offshoot brands turning into fancy-pants knockoff brands?

Above left: Chloe, spring 2007. Above right: See by Chloe.


Above left: Marc Jacobs, fall 2007. Above right: Marc by Marc Jacobs, spring 2008.

dear Zac Posen:

The wheat was a bad idea.

I get the whole prairie/farm/Amish countryside-inspired theme. It's fresh and different for a savvy little urbanite like you. I even like some of your looks, like these :


The key word, however, is "inspired." Of course you should take inspiration from the countryside. But you shouldn't take the actual wheat. That's taking it a little too literally.

Stam looks ridiculous. Who wants a dress with wheat on it?

Yours truly,
Emily