Monday, July 30, 2007

I don't know, Paolo...

I didn't love the fall collection, but these ads are making up for it a bit:

I would like to be Shalom Harlow.

And really, it's only a matter of time before I take a stack of pictures of Anja Rubik's haircut to my hairdresser and ask her to make me look like that.

Looks like Paolo Melim Andersson's winning me back a little bit -- I definitely can't wait to see what he'll be doing for his sophomore show at Chloe in September.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

i like this:

Aquascutum, Fall 2007.

That's all.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

simpsons chic

I've never been a huge fan of The Simpsons, but I must be missing something. Marge Simpson seems to be fashion's new It girl.

Even I had to admit that Bazaar's Simpsons editorial was hilarious, and now, with this Simpsons movie coming out one of these days, the incredibly cool Colette in Paris has jumped on the bandwagon:

The entrance to the store, complete with Marge and Lisa mannequins. Hm.

CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award Nominees

3.1 PHILLIP LIM- Phillip Lim
Ok, we all know I'm mildly obsessed with Lim, so I'll spare you that rant again.

BAND OF OUTSIDERS- Scott Sternberg

ERIN FETHERSTON- Erin Fetherston
I think Erin Fetherston is pretty adorable, and incredibly talented. She only did couture in Paris for a few years before she ever did ready-to-wear, and she's what? 25? Plus Zooey Deschanel sang at her fall 2007 ready-to-wear show, and I love Zooey Deschanel.

KOI- Koi Suwannagate
I'll be honest, I had to look her up. Her stuff is a little artisan-y for me. Don't love it.

MICHAEL BASTIAN- Michael Bastian
Apparently he was the men's fashion director of Bergdorf's for a while, so he should know what he's doing. I don't know much about menswear, so I'll leave that to someone else.

Had to look this guy up, too. Pretty stuff, but I'm not blown away.

ROGAN- Rogan Gregory
Eh. Reminds me of Rag & Bone, sort of, but Rag & Bone does it better.

THREEASFOUR LLC- Gabriel AsFour, Angela Donhauser, Adi Gil
I am eternally fascinated by the AsFour/ThreeAsFour/Myself dramatics, but I think they're all a little nuts. Right now, Gabriel, Angela, and Adi are gloating and Kai Khune is crying.

VENA CAVA- Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai
I'm glad they were nominated. I think it's only a matter of time before Vena Cava is another 3.1, or thereabouts.

VPL- Victoria Bartlett
I have a very special place in my heart for VPL. When I was 18 and a little PR intern, I went to the VPL fall 2005 show afterparty and thought I had hit the big times. I actually met Victoria a few months ago at her showroom and still felt like the little starstruck girl I am. Regardless, I think she's doing something really cool and different, and I think her bags and shoes are brilliant.

So who am I rooting for? Erin Fetherston or Vena Cava. Lim's a big enough deal already.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

like i've been saying...

The Phillip Lim store is beautiful.

I bought a shirt (irresponsible financial decision).

I'll post a picture soon.

Saturday, July 21, 2007

a question.

When I go out (and not even out-on-the-town out, just like out-to-the-grocery-store out), I generally have to try on about six different outfits until I find the one I like. It's a long, meticulous process. Last night, I was in the middle of said process, pulling out all the clothes in my closet and periodically yelling out that I have nothing to wear, when a (fashionable) friend suggested I wear leggings.

I was indignant. I couldn't wear leggings, I said. Who did he think I was?

I still have them in my closet, of course. Several pairs. I've worn them to death since my freshman year of college (three years ago -- I still remember trying to wear them at home in California over Christmas break; my mother was shocked to see the gruesome 80s trend revival). But in true Emily form (and I suppose, true fashion form), I've grown tired of them.

At the risk of poorly imitating Carrie Bradshaw, asking really important life questions in a column, I've started thinking about this...

... Are we all done with leggings?

Friday, July 20, 2007


The 3.1 Phillip Lim store finally opened on Mercer in SoHo.

I'm definitely going on my lunch break today.

I'm afraid that after he won the big-shot award at the CFDAs, his relatively affordable (relatively... ha) beautiful clothes will be completely out of reach for me.

But really, I should have this dress:

I've been keeping my eyes open for the right pair of oxford heels. These, with their slingback and chunky-ish heel, are just so cool.

I could get myself into trouble here.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

deja vu?

I loved Marc Jacobs' fall 2007 collection. Clearly, Winona Ryder did too.
The August issue of Vogue.
Winona and Mr. Jacobs at the CFDA Awards a couple months ago.

Monday, July 16, 2007


Remember this?

libertine debuts at target

Libertine's line for Target debuted yesterday.

I'm all for design for the masses. Proenza Schouler's and Paul and Joe's Target stuff was awesome, and the stuff Stella, Karl, and Viktor & Rolf did for H&M was, for the most part, pretty cool. I really believe that you can and should be able to find great clothes that are affordable.

That said, I will absolutely not be making the trek out to Brooklyn so that I can pick through racks of clothes that look like this:

There are no words.

To be fair, it doesn't all suck.

I don't hate the bird on this tank. I'd still probably put a cardigan over it, because I'm not crazy about the cut, but it's do-able.

This blazer is kind of cute. I'm afraid in person it might look a little cheap, but I think when high-end designers do low-end lines, they should stick with basics, and this is pretty basic.

I like the detail on this scarf. I can't figure out the shape, though -- I'd like it if it was a big square, not so much if it was long and narrow.

Generally underwhelmed.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

taking the plunge

Today I bought high-waisted jeans.

They are so cool.

After going back and forth several million times about whether I liked them or not, I found the perfect pair at Jill Stuart (and on sale!) and just did it. A dark, almost black wash, a relatively skinny leg, pockets that lay flat on the front (which is important) -- they're perfect.

I'm wearing them to a party tonight with a preppy little striped button down shirt -- tucked in, of course.

Wish me luck!

let's talk about resort.

I've only just recently come to love and appreciate resort collections. More casual than its big brothers, ready-to-wear and couture, resort is small (the majority of collections are only about 15 looks), summery, and easy.

You've already heard me gush over Balenciaga's resort collection and that one 3.1 Phillip Lim resort dress, but I'm not nearly done yet. Alberta Feretti and Proenza Schouler were my other favorites, along with more than a few standout looks in other collections.

Almost all navy and white, nautical without being theme-y, perfectly tailored but also easy, Alberta Feretti's collection was everything I think resort should be. Looking at these pieces makes me want to be on a yacht somewhere instead of my thousand-degree little New York apartment.


Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are up there on my list of men I love the most. For their Proenza Schouler resort collection, they did the structured, corset-y pieces they're famous for, but paired them with muted colors and softer silhouettes for a more summery look:

I can't believe how cool this stuff is. I love it. Another thing I liked were the hats-- an update on the uber-trendy straw fedora that I know we're all tired of seeing on Lindsay and Mischa and that little team.


I was not a huge fan of Prada's furry, acid green and orange fall collection, so I was pleasantly surprised to see a cute, 50s-inspired resort collection.

This is probably the least colorful look in the collection, but it's my favorite. That skirt is adorable.


The colors in Francisco Costa's Calvin Klein resort collection were totally inspired. I cannot get over this bright red and aqua combination:


I'm sad to say I've gotten to be a little disenchanted with Chloe after Paolo Melim Andersson's debut fall collection. I do like this look from the resort collection (but that's pretty clearly because it looks like it could belong in the spring 2007 collection, which is quite possibly one of my favorite collections of all time):

We're seeing that high-waisted skirt everywhere. I need to go do some shopping.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

i should have a dress like this:

3.1 Phillip Lim, resort 2008.

Isn't his store in SoHo supposed to be opening one of these days? I work around the corner from there, which is probably going to end up being a very dangerous thing.

Monday, July 9, 2007

just some things

I just heard that Fendi's having a fashion show in October (their spring 2008 line?) on the Great Wall of China. Apparently, the ministry of the People's Republic of China are thrilled about it.

I'm not really sure what to think about that.

Also, Jane Magazine (a Conde Nast publication) is folding. I might be terribly upset about this, but I'm not sure if I've ever read Jane Magazine.


Sienna's shooting his ads, everyone's partying with him in Rome, it's his 45th anniversary... and then you have the whole "is he or isn't he retiring?" debate. We're all getting worked up over Valentino these days, and I'm not sure why. He makes beautiful clothes and gorgeous gowns, but let's be honest here -- today, he's dressing ladies who lunch rather than changing the face of fashion in any kind of avant-garde way.

After everyone settled down a bit after Dior's big couture celebration, it seems like they all moved on to Valentino. To be honest, his couture show irritated me. We had the classic uptown suits and (obviously) a stretch of his trademark red dresses, but the pieces that stood out from the collection all seemed familiar to me... as in, inspired (knocked off?) from standout pieces from other runways.

Above and on the left is Valentino couture. Above and on the right: Proenza Schouler, fall 2007. Everyone was talking about this Proenza Schouler dress and the trompe l'oeil (tricking the eye) effect of the detailing. Hm.

Above and on the left, Valentino. On the right is Givenchy 's couture collection for spring 2007. A totally different dress, obviously, but that big round banding around the bottom is strikingly similar. Like the Proenza Schouler, the Givenchy gown was one of the standout pieces in that collection, and has graced many a magazine spread -- not the subtlest piece to take inspiration from.

Again, Valentino's on the left, and this time it's Donna Karan fall 2007 on the right. This isn't so much of a Donna Karan knockoff, because that sliver of acid yellow was on almost every fall runway, not just hers. It's the color of the season, we know, we know -- I guess I'd just expect to see Valentino staying away from something so glaringly trendy.

Above left, Valentino. Above right, Marchesa spring 2007 -- an oldie, as far as fashion goes. Remember when Sienna Miller wore the Marchesa rosette dress? Remember when Anne Hathaway wore the Marchesa rosette dress? Remember how everyone wore that Marchesa rosette dress? Valentino, why are you now making a rosette dress?

Valentino's above left, and on the right, a Hussein Chalayan dress from ages ago. The color, the volume -- sure, Chalayan's got no trademark on it, but that dress is a relatively important piece in the scheme of fashion. It was the first thing I thought of when I saw Valentino's frothy pink cape, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Saturday, July 7, 2007

A love letter to Mr. Ghesquiere

Dear Nicolas,
It's no secret that I have a huge crush on you. But my love for you has only deepened since I saw your Balenciaga resort collection.

These pieces are so cool. The headscarves, the little shrunken vests, those open-toe oxford shoes (!!). Love. It's love.

P.S. I don't even mind that these already-infamous hair-extension shoes will be in every single editorial from now until FOREVER:

Friday, July 6, 2007

GIVENCHYcouture (+elie saab)

Givenchy's couture collection was a little bit underwhelming for me. Riccardo Tisci clearly makes beautiful clothes, and the collection was full of gorgeous details -- draping, textures, furs -- but for me it didn't seem to stand apart from his ready-to-wear work enough. This, one of his first looks out, is pretty amazing, if only a little Balenciaga-esque:

That coat is serious. And I love those bandage-y ankle straps on the shoes.

This is incredibly glamorous in a classic sexy-black-dress-and-fur-coat kind of way, but the volume of the coat and the textures and cut of the dress make it different. I'd love to see that dress close up -- I think we'd all be blown away.

This dress screams Givenchy to me. All the draping and twisting in the middle, that long pleated section of the skirt -- for me, that's what Tisci is so good at: creating tons of texture in what, from far away, appears to be a simple black dress.

And now, a word or two regarding Elie Saab:

Everything he puts down the runway looks like something Beyonce should be wearing. Stop bedazzling the hell out of everything, Elie. We're tired of it.

He's obviously very talented, technically. We're just not seeing anything new.

Thursday, July 5, 2007


There's a reason why Lagerfeld's a legend, and it's not just because he's so freaking cool to look at.

He managed to create a couture collection that was at once classic Chanel and incredibly modern. Lagerfeld focused on drawing lines down each side of the body, creating a flat front view of each piece. He used embellishments to emphasize those strong side lines, like the feathers on this dress:

The neckline reiterates that symmetry. He's a genius, I'm telling you.

I think these gloves are amazing. I would love to see them on a red carpet with a really simple black dress (Cate Blanchett, are you reading this?).

This is what i mean about the collection being classically Chanel and so modern it's almost futuristic. It is futuristic, really: the clean, even spare silhouettes, the hoods and headpieces... it breaks my heart, it's so cool.

This is one of my favorite looks in the collection. The headwrap looks sort of 20s-flapper to me, and the bows on the shoulders are perfect. And is she wearing flats!? Seriously, Karl. Stop. No, don't.


The pieces created for the couture shows, happening now in Paris, will not be for sale at Dior, Chanel, or Givenchy boutiques. They're certainly not meant to be pieces hanging in anyone's closet. They don't need to be accessible or consumer-friendly, and they're not meant to drive any business.

Couture is, for me, the point where art and fashion really converge. Don't get me wrong, the ready-to-wear fashion weeks are generally my two favorite weeks of the year -- I sit around on my computer all day long smiling at slideshows and loving every minute. But couture is different.

Lately, ready-to-wear has become a party where everyone's invited. If you have a few thousand dollars and a few high-profile friends, you can have your own show, no talent required (coughcoughCHARLOTTERONSONcough). With couture, you can't be messing around.

Seriously. An Olsen can be a fashion designer these days and make a $100 "perfect t-shirt," but not just anyone can do this:Honestly.

John Galliano went all out for Dior's 60th anniversary, as one would expect. I actually thought the collection was a little all over the place -- sometimes it was Marie Antoinette in the 18th century, sometimes it was early 1900s My Fair Lady, sometimes it was classic Dior New Look from 1947- the beginning. But though it may not have been totally cohesive, you can't argue with the craftsmanship (and showmanship -- Gisele, Helena Christensen, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, and Amber Valletta all walked in the the show).

This one reminds me of the oragami-esque work he did last year- those sleeves are unbelievable.

A lot of the collection was inspired by art, whether literally, like this dress and others that look like they have paint splashes and swirls, or whether they alluded to portraiture, like this:

And really, fashion notwithstanding, you have to love a man who comes out at the end of his show looking like this:

Wednesday, July 4, 2007


Fourth of July! Yay America!


Couture shows week -- with a special congrats for Dior's 60th anniversary! Yay Paris! (Stay tuned for reviews...)

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

a postscript, an amendment.


I've been thinking a lot about that babushka thing. Maybe if we all tied them in the back instead of under the chin and then added a pair of serious shades (Tom Ford Anouk cat-eyes, maybe?), then we could be on to something.


and amendment:

I don't hate Wayfarers, but I do have mixed feelings towards those who wear them, unless you are A. Tom Cruise circa Risky Business, B. Audrey Hepburn circa Breakfast at Tiffany's, or C. my friend Pat.

This is okay.

This is okay.

This is not okay. Plus, Ashley, haven't you heard? Nobody's wearing turbans anymore. Babushkas.